Tag Archives: lawn care companies

Do it yourself versus the turf care professional Reason #1: The Environment

Lawn on a lake

Turf next to water needs special consideration

50 million Americans care for their own lawns, covering an estimated 31 million of acres of grass.  This amount of lawn area could cover all of New England with 80% of this grass residing in home lawns [Ref 1].  Even with these older figures, we can draw a few basic conclusions including home owner’s account for a significantly larger figure than those who have their grass professionally maintained.  We can also surmise that this is a lot grass area to care for over the growing season with potential ramifications.  Furthermore, the volume of products applied by novice, well-intentioned Americans far outweighs that of licensed and insured turf care professionals.  So what’s really at stake here?  What’s the big deal?

There are a few important factors that should be taken into consideration when comparing the perceived financial savings as opposed to hiring a professional turf care company.  First and foremost, you have the environment.  With so many “do it themselves” (who I will call DITs), one can imagine a larger  impact to waterways when material is unintentionally applied too close to rivers, streams, lakes, or storm drains in cities .  Even though the same rules apply within a state, who is going to notice or inspect the DITs?  No one I suspect would be the simple truth.  Well intentioned or not, without training, field experience, and education, this huge amount of DITs simply don’t have the tools necessary to make proper decisions and apply treatments to turf with the desired results. 

This is a unique problem as it relates to other fields as well such as with a plumber or electrician.  A home owner can do his or her own work, with the final inspection being done by a certified, licensed agent in many cases as a final proof of quality.  After all, there is an inherent safety issue with electrical work to those living within the building.  Codes must be upheld and followed for reasons of safety.  What would happen if this same concept applied to the turf industry?  Imagine requiring a final certification or a site visit prior to applying a weed and feed to your lawn, either near a waterway or even in a city.  Regardless of location, products including fertilizers can find their way into a water system when applied incorrectly, at the wrong rate or analysis.  While this might seem extreme, I propose that most DIT’s do not know the majority of Federal or State legislation governing the applications of lawncare products such as herbicides, insecticides and simple fertilizers.

There is a common saying in many professions that they ‘rely on their tools in their tool box’ to get the job done right. These tools can be diversified and help each professional complete a job, whether a mechanic, physician, or lawn care company.  Each business has varying degrees of education, on the job experience, and certification or licensing to attain each level of competency.  I have been in the green industry for 25 years now and have seen the mistakes made by DITs, as well as by those in the industry with a lack of proper training and education.  It seems like common sense that insuring a quality job is done right, with the right tools would be a top priority in any business, including the turf care industry.

I propose that regardless of what is being applied to turf to make it healthier, or to benefit the home owner’s quality of life, the treatment itself must be done to specifications and within the guidelines set forth by each body of legislature to insure our environment is kept safe for generations to come. 

I find it unsettling that so many DITs have access of some of the same professional products I use in formulations readily available at their local hardware store yet without the guidance and licensing required of our business.  In the end, it all comes down to numbers as cited in the opening paragraph of this blog post: the millions outweigh the professionals.  This information is certainly food for thought as you prepare this winter for the upcoming spring thaw and the inevitable flurry of activity outside on your own lawn.  Perhaps this is the year to explore different options, such as choosing a path that makes both your lawn green, and keeps green in your wallet, while obtaining the results you demand in a safe and eco-friendly way.

References:

[1] The Lawn Institute, 1855-A Hicks Road, Rolling Meadows, IL 60008.

Phosphorus (P), new legislation for fertilizer use in Vermont

Phosphorus use in Vermont changes for 2012

New Vermont legislation that all but bans phosphorus uses on maintained lawns in Vermont is a model following several other states including New York and Maine.  Unfortunately, the message has yet to reach most home owners and businesses within Vermont as it relates to fertilizer usage.  A pile of research and scientific agreement went into drafting this new law as it relates to the removal of phosphorus (P) in fertilizer.  If we recall from chemistry class, P is the middle number in what most folks see on a bag of fertilizer. For example; 23-5-10 with 5 representing P.  As a general statement, unless you have a soil test determining the need for P, or if the your lawn is newly seeded/sodded in the first year, P is now illegal to use in the state of Vermont.  The truth is lots of research supports P finding its way into our waterways such as rivers, streams, and lakes.  As a result, algae blooms become abundant, using up oxygen in the water and thereby causing adverse health effects to fish and other desirable organisms.

Regrettably, some of the new law is vague and does not address specific issues such as acres of agricultural land along the CT River or large lakes; they are exempt.  Another difficulty is in regard to the time frame that you as a home owner can apply fertilizer in Vermont.  The new time frame is capped between April 1st and October 15th.  Similar laws in surrounding states end the season on December 1st versus mid October.  Although December 1st might be a stretch for Vermont fertilizer use and not be applicable (did I mention the ground cannot be frozen?), I can certainly see viable treatments being applied into late October.  Don’t forget, this applies to ALL home owners in Vermont as well as commercial entities including golf courses.  The current fine is listed at around $500 per occurrence.  That could get expensive!  You know what the Borg say on Star Trek the next generation . . . “resistance is futile”.

On the positive side, the mandated 25 ft distance between waterways and the lawn is a nice starting point.  I would actually recommend a greater distance on steep slopes or very thin turf where runoff or erosion is likely to occur.  Remember, green grass is nice when done right, but it’s only grass and effort should be made to prevent potential damage to the home of fish, plants, or other wildlife.  This change in law is another reason why state licensed, seasoned, and experienced companies are so important when it comes to legally fertilizing and caring for your turf.  While most home owners may mean well, it will take months if not years for this kind of word to spread never mind compliance with switching over to a zero phosphate fertilizer.  Don’t forget, lots of people think like this . . .  “If 50 lbs is good, 100 should be great”.  In this case, not so much.

How can you help?  Step one would be to tell your friends to read this blog and spread the word.  Folks need to realize this is an important change.  A really big one!  Second, get a copy of the law as it is drafted by visiting the Department of Agriculture. Or ask your local representative to send you a copy and explain it further.  I have the file in electronic form and could e-mail a copy if asked.   April 1st will be here before you know it, then its game time . . . on unfrozen ground of course!

 On Twitter @MrGrassNHVT

Autumn brings out the best in a lawn in NH & VT

chippers can create a picture perfect lawn outside your window

With autumn in full swing, most lawns in NH & VT should be well recovered from what was a record setting summer in terms of high heat.  Any lingering damage should be very obvious and can be fixed before winter such as dead patches of crabgrass or ongoing grub activity.  September and October are ideal months to improve your grass due to warm soil, ample moisture, and cool days/nights.  Fertilizing, liming, aeration, seeding, compost tea, and optional weed reduction are all most effective at this time of the year in NH & VT.  Any insect activity should be addressed now as the longer you wait; the more lawn you lose and the more difficult the control becomes as the pests grow larger such as with grubs in the soil.

If your lawn has issues with weeds such as shepherd’s purse, chickweed, or henbit; consider a treatment this fall with products such as Dimension.  Use of the aforementioned product this fall will also provide some crabgrass suppression next spring.

Autumn is a great time to improve your soil since it is the supporting mechanism for a healthy lawn.  Topdressing with compost, adding sea kelp, or spraying on compost tea rich in humates, fungi, and bacteria are encouraging ways to improve the microbial state of your lawn before winter.  Using a high calcium lime is a positive step to not only adjust your soil pH, but provide calcium which turf greatly appreciates by improving the cation exchange within the soil itself.  What does that mean?  Calcium helps loosen soil up while Magnesium based lime tends to bind it up more.  The better the cation exchange, the less your soil will leach nutrients, especially when combined with a healthy microbial environment below ground.  Soils high in organic matter have high cation exchange capacities while sandy soils have very low ratings.  As you can see, healthy soil is more important to your lawn than you may have imagined.

As always, be sure to recycle your lawn clippings whenever possible and mow high even in the fall to promote deeper root systems.  As the leaves begin to fall and accumulate, don’t let them mulch out shaded areas- rake them up or mow them into pieces.  Improved sunlight can help those marginal areas which were blocked by a tree canopy or forest edge.  Even shade tolerant grass will appreciate a little extra sun in the fall before winter snow arrives.

VT lawns flooded from hurricane Irene are buried in silt.

Hurricane Irene knocked out power, collapsed bridges older than most can remember, and left lawns buried in what can only be described as “muck” across much of Vermont.  Once power is restored, roads are rebuilt, and normalcy returns, many folks will be forced to reclaim or at least make a decision about their lawns.

Many golf courses suffered extreme damage to the point where starting over by tilling under the greens and fairways may be the only viable option.  For those with a home lawn in a flood plain or next to a waterway, removing silt and sediment can be a daunting task.  Before you begin any work, be sure to wear rubber boots, face masks, and gloves to avoid any potential contamination from the sediment.  There is a high likelihood that the silt and sediment, being of the finest particle size, will contain petroleum products among other liquid waste. 

First, removing as much sediment, debris, and silt is important because leaving it behind will not allow a new lawn to drain properly because clay retains rainfall and does not have air pockets necessary to support healthy roots.  In many cases, a complete lawn renovation may well be required after removing the sediment now covering your old lawn.  At this point in time, any buried turf is now beginning to decompose into itself, further adding to the foul odor now emanating from fields.

What can a regular home owner do about silt and sand on their lawn from a flood if grass still remains?  After shoveling or sweeping shallow sediment (under 1”), the lawn can be aerated a few times and then heavily overseeded to add new grass and help restore the lawn prior to winter.  Depending upon the quality of the loam or soil deposited on the surface of the lawn, it could act as topdressing of sorts, promoting surface germination while improving density before winter.  If the sediment has more silt than sand, adding compost or topsoil may be a better option for those lawn areas still partially alive.  If your lawn is buried and dead, the only viable option is to remove the sediment and start over by bringing in loam.  Keeping the silt contaminated by petroleum products and other effluent discharged during the flood is not what you want to have as a base lawn area.

Sediment and Silt left from flooded rivers in VT must be removed

Either way you slice it, the job is not easy but regaining any turf area now makes sense if possible before winter arrives.  Doing so may well prevent further erosion next spring and the mud storm that non-grassed areas could prevent with a fall seeding.

Fall is the best time to improve your lawn in NH & VT

Fall is the best time to repair or seed a lawn in NH and VT

Fall is the best time to repair your lawn after experiencing a brutal hot summer.  Although your lawn may contain summer annual weeds like crabgrass, oxalis, spurge; take heart that their time will soon be coming to an end in September.  September beckons turf renovation in order to help restore some order by repairing any damage incurred since spring.  Common lawn damage results from drought, weed or insect infestation, or even disease and must be repaired in the fall for best results.

Regardless of what went wrong, having a game plan now is critical toward taking advantage of warm autumn soil, cool nights, and typical rain.  This normal weather combination makes fall an ideal time to repair and improve lawns in NH and VT.  So what can be done?  What should you consider in terms of products or services this fall to help your home lawn?

Aeration and overseeding should be at the top of your list because both will help your lawn in numerous ways.  Review my prior blog posts for the benefits of aeration and overseeding.  So long as soil moisture is good, aeration can begin in mid to late August depending upon your location.  Topdressing bare spots or a damaged area of lawn is another great process toward thickening up your lawn once seeded.  Seeding and renovating your lawn by aerating is just the first step toward helping repair and improve it.

Applying a high calcium lime, a well blended natural fertilizer, and even kelp or compost tea will enhance seeding results and benefit the organisms in the soil itself.  Sandy soils, new lawns, and those with thin topsoil depths are at a disadvantage in terms of supporting a high quality lawn without substantial work.  A great start to either improving or repairing a treated lawn includes some if not all of the aforementioned lawn treatments in both NH & VT.

September and October are huge months and can turn an otherwise weak, thin, or damaged lawn around; preparing it for the spring of 2012.  The healthier you get your lawn during this time frame, the better your grass is prepared for the winter and spring treatments next year.  Remember, most crabgrass control products do not allow seeding and use of that product simultaneously next spring.  Although spring lawn seeding and repair can be fruitful, the weather often plays a huge roll regarding rainfall and heat.  You will also face annual weeds as they germinate in new soil, presenting serious competition to your young lawn.  These two factors make fall the opportune time to make repairs over spring time when it comes to achieving maximum results.

Plan ahead now and don’t miss this important time frame to help repair your lawn for not only this winter, but more importantly the spring of 2012!

July & August can bring out the worst in a home lawn

Classic mid summer crabgrass outbreak

Midsummer weather can put even a great looking lawn into a slow dive of despair without careful attention.  As the heat kicks into high gear, soil temperatures reach their smoking point and crabgrass seeds begin germinating in earnest, popping like corn in a microwave.  Limey green crabgrass plants appear virtually overnight exposing vulnerable areas along driveways, patios, walkways, mailboxes among others.  Where did they come from?  How can they grow so fast?  Ah, the games have just begun!

If you have not watered and your lawn is cut short, now is when your thin lawn becomes choked out with crabgrass plants the size of small cars.  During hot, humid weather, cool season grasses will stop growing, sitting idle while crabgrass seemingly grows an inch an hour, basking in the searing July heat.  A weak or thin lawn, or those lacking a pre-emergent crabgrass barrier, are now at high risk for a crabgrass invasion that will only cease when school reopens.  While post-emergent sprays do exist, spraying at this stage is like using a garden hose on a house fire: it’s best just to let nature take its course.  Measures should be taken in the fall such as aeration, overseeding, lime, and turf thickening fertilizers to help prepare the lawn for the following spring.  A healthy lawn resists this invasion, and although areas may see some crabgrass, it will not be to the point where one could harvest the greenery for salads.

Damaged lawn

A casual glance toward the interior of your lawn may reveal disturbing patches and blotches of varying sizes and colors ranging from brown to white.  How can this be?  What went wrong?  Like a good CSI episode, it is time for the facts to speak and rule out the guessing.  These issues generally fall under environmental stress such as heat, sun scald, or some other non-pathogenic source.  Ruling out diseases can be very tricky depending upon the weather, timing, and location of injury.  This summer has seen a significant upswing in disease-related damage ranging from pits and scars, to unusual patches.  Preventative measures can be taken to help clean up your lawn with either traditional or organic treatments.  Insects are perhaps the easiest to detect given their predicable nature and timing during the season.  Now is a perfect time to treat for grubs, sod webworm, and chinch bugs using either organic or traditional materials.

Doing some simple things properly for your lawn during the next 6 weeks can reduce unsettling issues arising from disease, insects, and environmental stress.  Summer is generally not the best time to spray for difficult to control broadleaf weeds like ground ivy and violets since high heat and low soil moisture content reduce product effectiveness.    If you think you have an invasion at your house, get it checked out and maybe there is a solution to either stop the problem or slow the damage.  Don’t let your lawn scare the neighborhood children – plan ahead and keep it clean and green!

Preparing your lawn for summer

 

Proper mowing height is the single most important thing you can do to your lawn

As June fades into July, there are definite guidelines on what you, as a homeowner should do and not do as it relates to your lawn.  The most important and often discarded piece of valuable turf information is mowing height.  Like a doctor speaking with a patient, mowing is one of the most important pieces of advice a homeowner can follow.  Even if you have your lawn professionally cut, this does not automatically mean the job will be done right.  I have seen too many commercial lawns scalped or mown below 2” during the summer, only to become stressed weakened and prone to both weeds and crabgrass.

So what is the ideal summer cut?  For most lawns, sun or shaded situations call for a high cut at 3” or maybe a little higher.  Sunny areas are prone to stress when cut in the middle of a hot day, predisposing them to all kinds of heat and mower stress.  As the grass is cut, depending upon the sharpness of the blade, the leaves lose water and can brown with the increased moisture demand.  Said another way, if you cut something, it bleeds – in this case a grass blade is mostly water.  When a mower cuts it, especially during the day, and below 2”, the lawn loses moisture rapidly.  If the soil is dry and cannot support replacing this moisture loss, you can see browning the same day or shortly thereafter.  These areas can appear as brown patches, yellowing, or widespread discoloration depending upon the time and day temperature.

The shorter the mowing height, especially as it approaches the 1” level, the more substantial damage can be caused from June through August.  The shorter the cut, the hotter the soil becomes, causing weed seeds to germinate.  Any pre-emergent barrier that may have been put down pre-maturely degrades, allowing weeds to germinate unnecessarily.  Removal of grass clippings may provide an aesthetically pleasing view, but it removes critical organic matter week after week.  There may be an occasion for this procedure, but on the whole, grass clippings should be mulched and returned to the lawn surface like leaves falling in a forest.  This way, whatever energy and professional care you are putting into your lawn will not go to waste but will provide the most benefit possible.

Lawn care treatment precautions: what you need to know

 

A common lawn care flag designed to grab your attention

You just arrive home and you see a lawn flag in your lawn, you don’t know what to do!  What precautions should you, as a homeowner, be aware of as it relates to lawn care treatments being made to your lawn by your lawn care company?  This is a great question.

Although lawn treatments will vary from liquid to granular, and from product to product, there are some basics you should be aware of regardless of the company you employ to care for your grass.  I prefer granular products because in general, no special precautions need to be made to you, as the homeowner or client.  Once the product is down, the majority of materials used do not require watering or even a waiting period before use by your family or pets.  Hurray!  In fact, even our broadleaf weed control products request that you do not mow or water for a few days for maximum results.  Wow, instructions to do nothing- I like this lawn program!  In fact, less than 5% of our lawn treatments require any special watering, mowing, or other unique directions to you as a home owner.

Lawn flags are required on commercial treatments in NH

Liquid treatments are another means to deliver a material to a lawn area or tree and shrubs.  As a general rule, these lawn treatments are diluted using water as a carrier and once dry, the lawn can be used for most activities.  Chippers’ “Essential Turf Care program” utilizes very few liquid treatments with the exception of some tick sprays, compost tea, or perhaps a non-selective weed treatment in your mulch beds.  Again, even these liquid treatments require no special action to be taken by you, as a homeowner.  Our program is designed to free up your time, not chain you to your lawn by adding more responsibility or duties.  Is it any surprise that our turf division has become so popular with our clients in NH and VT?

If you do have any questions regarding your lawn or other treatment, be sure to read the back of our flags or the door hanger left behind outlining what was done, when, who did it, and any special notes you may wish to read.  If you desire further information, call any of our offices during the week and speak to a real customer service executive, not an answering machine!  Your satisfaction is our top priority.

To weed your lawn or not to weed, that is the question!

White clover in a lawn is very common

Many folks cannot stand dandelions, clover, violets, wild strawberry and a host of other creepy-crawly broadleaf weeds.  By definition, a weed is simply a plant that is not desired, out of place if you will.  Therefore, one person’s weed is perhaps desired by another.  I often ask clients on a consultation if they want weeds reduced or left alone.  The majority have quick answer, such as “I don’t mind them” or “kill them all!” different strokes for different folks.  The point I am trying to make is this: you don’t necessarily need to feel obligated to attack every broadleaf weed in your lawn to have it healthy, colorful, and green.  Sure, some will flower and it may not have that “golf course” manicured look, but it will certainly be functional for barbeques, picnics, or volleyball.

On the other hand, some folks like a more manicured, groomed lawn with a finer texture and a pleasing roll as the wind combs each blade into a carpet of excellence.  Broadleaf weeds are best reduced and attacked when they are actively growing, and that means spring and fall.  Tough weeds have waxy coatings which makes them difficult to thin out like ground ivy and violets.  Other weeds shake in fear at the mere sight of a bag of weed and feed being loaded up into the spreader for the inevitable is near!  Clover and dandelions are easily reduced or completely eliminated in a single season with proper timing and technique.

The dandelion is the symbol of a common weed

Weeds are like chocolate and vanilla ice cream, there is an opposite flavor and outlook on each, neither being necessarily right or wrong, better or worse.  My final word of caution for those “do it yourself” folks, be vigilant of how much and when you apply your material.  Be aware of surface water like rivers, streams, lakes, and ponds as they border your turf area.  Be careful not to apply too much product under the illusion of better results, disregarding the label instructions.  Have fun, and may your lawn be a source of enjoyment, not a burden to your summer happiness.

How to find a great lawn care company in NH & VT

Find the right lawn care company this year

 

On the surface, many lawn care companies appear exactly alike as it relates to a phone book or newspaper advertisement.  If a web site is available, you are likely to see images of a thick, green lawn surrounded by bold tag lines such as “Quality service”, “Five step program”, or “Satisfaction Guaranteed” among many others.  Before you start shopping, write down a short list of what you are looking for- even if you don’t know what you want.  Let me explain.

What are some of your priorities?  Less weeds perhaps, maybe a healthier lawn is your general desire?  Do you prefer natural products over traditional ones?  The final consideration should be the budget or price as any reputable company will prioritize treatments according to results and how to get there as it relates to your wishes.  Said another way, you care about your lawn and have at least decided to seek additional professional help; regardless of the underlying reasons.  While pricing is certainly an important component, what you get for that price varies between lawn care companies.  Experience, product choice, and even rates applied can range from “light” to “generous” when it comes to the amount of material used at your home or office.

While you may not have the time or desire to execute a properly designed turf enhancement program, there are plenty of great companies that will not only make your lawn look better, but make you smile when you look out your window.  All lawn programs are not created equally.  All lawn programs have underlying similar themes but the product choices and execution of the program are critically different between certified, licensed lawn companies.  Do you know anyone who uses a lawn care company?  If so, who do they use and why?  Often you might have heard “street talk”, conversations in passing good or bad of experiences with either local or distant lawn companies.  While national lawn companies may boast the cheapest price, the savings in results, service, billing, customer service, and problem solving skills tend to be inconsistent and difficult to control between offices.  Along the same theme, is supporting your local economy important?  If so, look for lawn care companies within a 30 minute drive of your home versus 1, 2 or more hours away.

What program options are you interested in?  Is your preference toward Natural or Organic fertilizers and treatments of compost tea and sea kelp?  Maybe your interest is simply removing all of those juicy weeds that inhabit your front lawn!  Keeping an open mind, there are many roads and options that can lead to a healthier, greener lawn.  Some lawn products take longer to see visible results while others are faster or “better” simply by working on technology.  Who made the lawn program you are considering?  Is the program a corporate “white bread” duplicated office after office, or are the materials handpicked and the program handcrafted by a smaller company?  These are all very good questions to consider while selecting a new or switching to another lawn care program.    

Once you have a list of priorities and have considered some of the questions put forth in this blog post, you are ready to act!  Good luck in your quest and may your phone call or e-mail be answered promptly.  Get ready for spring!