Tag Archives: Crabgrass

Do It Yourself versus The Turf Care Professional Reason #2: Time and Money

Posted on February 14, 2012 | Leave a comment

Your free time is worth a lot!

There is an old saying “time is money” which refers to how valuable time is to everyone.  One might say that weekend time, or time away from work might be considered the most valuable, as it relates to family, friends, and recreation.  Time is a premium commodity and is both highly prized and savored by Americans after an exhausting work week.

This exact philosophy applies to caring for your home lawn, regardless of its size.  Many people hire a company to mow their lawn because it saves them hours per week that they can spend doing more enjoyable activities.  The same correlation can be made to applying lawns treatments to keep your lawn healthy and green.  Applying a lawn treatment might seem easy on the surface.  However, doing the treatments right and using the correct products can pose a serious dilemma to the average home owner.  Let’s consider the real cost of time and money involved with these types of activities.

First, you need to have a spray rig or a dry spreader to apply lawn materials.  Most spreaders available at the hardware store are sweet little things, not really setup for ease of use.  Consider hard plastic tires versus air inflated commercial grade tires while walking an acre, no comparison!  Now you have invested in a $60 throw away lawn spreader with no real serviceable parts.  Now comes the hard part, what are you going to put down on your lawn?

A toy spreader for home use, very sweet

You now have to shop for the actual goodies, the fertilizer or lime; perhaps even blended with some other items to knock back weeds, bugs, or minimize crabgrass growth.  There are lots of commercial formulations made by large companies trying to simplify this difficult task by labeling the times of year as “Steps” for instance.  This is where Step One would be in the spring and Four or Five would be in the fall.  While the essence of this seems logical, what is or is not going on in your lawn certainly may not reflect your real lawn care needs at a given time during the growing season.  What’s the big deal you might say?

Well, if you are treating for chinch bugs but really have a grub problem that is a real problem.  You have now applied a pesticide unnecessarily and have not solved the issue at hand.  Don’t forget, these products are not cheap; you can lay down a quick $100 to treat a quarter of an acre without even looking at the receipt.  Don’t forget about the damage still being done or the cost of a lawn renovation.  Diseases and insects are real threats and are not easy to diagnosis without some field experience and education. 

Back to the time element; the time involved shopping, carrying the bags back home, and actual application can easily turn into half a day barring any confusion, weather issues, or other time consuming delays.  Most lawn care products also have rates and ranges, but that assumes you know what you’re treating. The TV ads make treating your own lawn seem easy, like grilling up a burger on a Saturday night, but this is oversimplified.

Best case scenario, you bought everything you need – and used up most of your prized Saturday morning and into early afternoon putting down a weed and feed plus lime, plus crabgrass inhibitor.  Let’s assume you did the job right.  How does this really break down in terms of time and money spent?  Most products you find at the hardware store are either setup for a 5,000 or 15,000 sq.ft. yard. A recent online search brought up the following data to fertilize a lawn and treat it for both broadleaf weeds and crabgrass:

I will use a common lawn size of 8,000 sq.ft. Which means you will need two bags of the aforementioned product @$65 each, now you have to store a partial bag for use next spring.  Hmmm, wonder if it will be useable next year?  $130

1hr shopping for fertilizer and bringing it home   $25

1hr for application/cleanup                                $25

Approximate total cost of $180, excluding your spreader.  Remember, I said the job was done correctly, what if it was not?  Oh my.

A professionally licensed and insured applicator in VT or NH could do the same treatment in 15-20 minutes and charge you between $60 and $95 depending upon your location and actual materials/rates used, which do vary.  The old saying, “you get what you pay for” surely does have a legitimate basis.

If you want the job done right, would like more free time, and still want to enjoy your landscape, perhaps this is the year to explore alternatives to doing the work yourself.  The math sure looks good, what about your lawn?!

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Posted in Broadleaf Weeds, Crabgrass, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies

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Three reasons your lawn looks bad every year

Posted on January 6, 2012 | Leave a comment

You don't have to suffer with a bad lawn in 2012

Face it, your lawn is ugly and you know it.  You can pretend the front lawn looks lush and green as your lawn tractor mows and creates a dust bowl similar to that of the great depression.  Unless of course your lawn is made up of more crabgrass than real grass?  The crabgrass will take a while to flourish, so this spring there will be more open prairie than visible lawn.  If that’s the case, at least you’ll have weeds to cut by late July. When did things go wrong?  Some lawns can die from catastrophic insect infestations and others a more gradual and slow decline. The most likely causes would be mowing abuse, poor soil care and a host of other circumstances.  So, let’s dig deeper.

Even if you had a lawn at one time, chances are you mow it to short.  I call this syndrome the “military style” mowing tactic. Short, clean, and improper.  With the mower deck only centimeters above the soil, the blade catches chunks of sod, soil and debris discarding the plume of devastation into the air or mower bag.  Like helicopters flying above the enemy, nothing survives and what is left resembles a parking lot in New York City left vacant for years.  Mowing to short heats up the soil causing weed seeds like crabgrass and spurge to germinate.  Mowing short places tremendous drought stress on the grass itself as water loss evaporates from the cut leaf blade.  Mowing short creates a short leaf blade that means less surface area for the lawn to capture sunlight and manufacture food for survival.  Would you prefer all of your teeth or only the front two for eating?  Mow your grass between 2.5 and 3 inches most of the year and you will minimize most of the aforementioned issues.

Removal of grass clippings is another mowing related issue that deprives your lawn of valuable nutrients over time.  Mulching or discarding clippings directly back onto the lawn is a desired practice as opposed to removal while mowing.  Consider your lawn a crop. Each time you remove organic matter (clippings), you deny the soil and turf (your crop) a piece of the food it needs to flourish.  Like recycling, returning that energy and sunlight in the form of clippings is a very good practice and should be encouraged all year long.  That is not to say that on occasion after returning home from a vacation or a heavy lawn growth in the spring that clippings could not be removed to facilitate a better cut.

Neglected soil is perhaps one of the greatest mysteries to a home owner. It’s almost as mysterious as the creation of the great pyramids in Egypt.  You cannot see it; you walk over it, mow over it, and wonder why your lawn looks so horrible.  Unfortunately, soil should support healthy lawn growth or other landscape plants but cannot when there are poor conditions.  While some folks may understand that their soil is sandy or full of clay, what to do about it is another story altogether.  The good news is that changing your soil from unhealthy to healthy is possible with dedicated and diligent effort.  Good soil is like a nice cake or bread mix, it needs the right ingredients in the right amounts.  For instance, organic matter is highly desired in a soil setting as it supports a wide array of micro-organisms which in turn help create a wonderful relationship with turf roots and available nutrient uptake.  Organic content, along with fine clay particles also help retain moisture needed to get through dry periods.  On the other hand, too much clay in the soil can become compacted with smaller air pockets unable to support healthy root growth.  Too much sand in your soil means little water holding capacity but great drainage- ideal for septic systems or wet areas.

The corrective measures required to improve your soil could include annual liming with either calcium or magnesium, topdressing with organic matter in the spring or fall, adding compost tea to enhance microbial life, or even the introduction of mycorrihizae by coating grass seed.  Of course, mulching your clippings, proper mowing height, raking and watering will make a big impact long term.

 

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Posted in Cultural Practices, Lawn Care Companies

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July & August can bring out the worst in a home lawn

Posted on July 19, 2011 | Leave a comment

Classic mid summer crabgrass outbreak

Midsummer weather can put even a great looking lawn into a slow dive of despair without careful attention.  As the heat kicks into high gear, soil temperatures reach their smoking point and crabgrass seeds begin germinating in earnest, popping like corn in a microwave.  Limey green crabgrass plants appear virtually overnight exposing vulnerable areas along driveways, patios, walkways, mailboxes among others.  Where did they come from?  How can they grow so fast?  Ah, the games have just begun!

If you have not watered and your lawn is cut short, now is when your thin lawn becomes choked out with crabgrass plants the size of small cars.  During hot, humid weather, cool season grasses will stop growing, sitting idle while crabgrass seemingly grows an inch an hour, basking in the searing July heat.  A weak or thin lawn, or those lacking a pre-emergent crabgrass barrier, are now at high risk for a crabgrass invasion that will only cease when school reopens.  While post-emergent sprays do exist, spraying at this stage is like using a garden hose on a house fire: it’s best just to let nature take its course.  Measures should be taken in the fall such as aeration, overseeding, lime, and turf thickening fertilizers to help prepare the lawn for the following spring.  A healthy lawn resists this invasion, and although areas may see some crabgrass, it will not be to the point where one could harvest the greenery for salads.

Damaged lawn

A casual glance toward the interior of your lawn may reveal disturbing patches and blotches of varying sizes and colors ranging from brown to white.  How can this be?  What went wrong?  Like a good CSI episode, it is time for the facts to speak and rule out the guessing.  These issues generally fall under environmental stress such as heat, sun scald, or some other non-pathogenic source.  Ruling out diseases can be very tricky depending upon the weather, timing, and location of injury.  This summer has seen a significant upswing in disease-related damage ranging from pits and scars, to unusual patches.  Preventative measures can be taken to help clean up your lawn with either traditional or organic treatments.  Insects are perhaps the easiest to detect given their predicable nature and timing during the season.  Now is a perfect time to treat for grubs, sod webworm, and chinch bugs using either organic or traditional materials.

Doing some simple things properly for your lawn during the next 6 weeks can reduce unsettling issues arising from disease, insects, and environmental stress.  Summer is generally not the best time to spray for difficult to control broadleaf weeds like ground ivy and violets since high heat and low soil moisture content reduce product effectiveness.    If you think you have an invasion at your house, get it checked out and maybe there is a solution to either stop the problem or slow the damage.  Don’t let your lawn scare the neighborhood children – plan ahead and keep it clean and green!

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Posted in Broadleaf Weeds, Bugs, Lawn Pests, Insects, Crabgrass, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Turf Disease

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To weed your lawn or not to weed, that is the question!

Posted on May 10, 2011 | Leave a comment

White clover in a lawn is very common

Many folks cannot stand dandelions, clover, violets, wild strawberry and a host of other creepy-crawly broadleaf weeds.  By definition, a weed is simply a plant that is not desired, out of place if you will.  Therefore, one person’s weed is perhaps desired by another.  I often ask clients on a consultation if they want weeds reduced or left alone.  The majority have quick answer, such as “I don’t mind them” or “kill them all!” different strokes for different folks.  The point I am trying to make is this: you don’t necessarily need to feel obligated to attack every broadleaf weed in your lawn to have it healthy, colorful, and green.  Sure, some will flower and it may not have that “golf course” manicured look, but it will certainly be functional for barbeques, picnics, or volleyball.

On the other hand, some folks like a more manicured, groomed lawn with a finer texture and a pleasing roll as the wind combs each blade into a carpet of excellence.  Broadleaf weeds are best reduced and attacked when they are actively growing, and that means spring and fall.  Tough weeds have waxy coatings which makes them difficult to thin out like ground ivy and violets.  Other weeds shake in fear at the mere sight of a bag of weed and feed being loaded up into the spreader for the inevitable is near!  Clover and dandelions are easily reduced or completely eliminated in a single season with proper timing and technique.

The dandelion is the symbol of a common weed

Weeds are like chocolate and vanilla ice cream, there is an opposite flavor and outlook on each, neither being necessarily right or wrong, better or worse.  My final word of caution for those “do it yourself” folks, be vigilant of how much and when you apply your material.  Be aware of surface water like rivers, streams, lakes, and ponds as they border your turf area.  Be careful not to apply too much product under the illusion of better results, disregarding the label instructions.  Have fun, and may your lawn be a source of enjoyment, not a burden to your summer happiness.

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Posted in Broadleaf Weeds, Lawn Care Companies

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Lawn pests include grubs in NH & VT

Posted on April 19, 2011 | 3 Comments

The Japanese beetle will not only eat foliage, the grubs will eat your lawn!

There are about eight major types of grubs in NH and VT that cause turf damage, ranging from the classic Japanese beetle to a masked chafer.  Grubs will cause lawn damage plus the adults will devour ornamental shrubs and trees in your landscape.  The potential loss of your investment makes controlling the young and adult stage of these beetles a sensible decision.  Luckily, there are organic and new products available to help control these villains plus many others!

As always, the best defense is a good offense.  Healthy turf can withstand root pruning and even minor damage without a pesticide being applied – even an organic one.  Proper cultural practices, such as proper irrigation and a high 3” mowing height, also help keep your lawn cooler and less desirable to adult beetles.  Overseeding with resistant turf varieties makes the grass taste less desirable, not necessarily to grubs but to their buddies above ground like chinch bugs, sod webworm and such.

New and old research shows that compost tea actually helps grass develop its own immune response to reduce damage from both insect and disease activity. Although not an easy turf treatment, beneficial nematodes provide 100% organic control in the spring or fall.  Milky spore disease was developed a long time ago to control only Japanese beetle grubs, not the other seven.  Unfortunately, the spores take years to develop due to the cold New England winters.  As a result, Milky spore is not recommended by professionals as it simply does not work in NH or VT.

New organic pesticides that are ORMI certified contain capcaisin, the active ingredient in hot peppers. To obtain good results, and because the organic treatments are short-lived, multiple visits are required in the spring and fall to obtain predictable results.  Even organic pesticides require extensive licensing and certification in both NH and VT.  If you are considering “professional help,” be sure to ask for the company’s NHPC number in NH or license certification in VT before having any treatment done on your property- organic or otherwise!  The potential damage inflicted by an application remains substantial, even if the material used is 100% organic, with improper rates, training, and equipment.  In today’s economy, everyone with a pickup truck claims he is an organic landscaper but doesn’t have the credentials, insurance, or education to back up the temporary lettering.

For those ‘do-it-yourself’ folks, be careful what you purchase and use this spring.  For instance, “Grubex” is another name for Acelypryn, a great new product for controlling grubs and other harmful insects.  Unfortunately, if used at the wrong time, your application will not work due to the size and life stage of the pest you may desire to eliminate.  This factor underscores the importance of proper training and state certification where turf technicians must learn not only insect but local disease pests.

While the bag you buy at your hardware store may be well labeled for grubs, you may not be applying it at the right time or stage of the pest.  Said another way, just because the bag says it controls pests X, Y, and Z does not mean you are going to control them due to the time of year.  This type of activity would be the definition of a waste of money, time, and chemical.  Without the proper information on the life cycle of the pest you seek to destroy or reduce, applying home products is like shooting in the dark.

In summary, there are lots of ways to help your lawn look great, with the best and least environmental impact being the cultural and day to day upkeep of the turf.  Integrating resistant grasses during lawn overseeding/establishment and implementing organic or natural bacterial and friendly fungi are super tools with no harmful side effects.  In my opinion, pesticides should only be used as a last resort or when there may be a history of continual damage on a scale that would outweigh the omission of such products.  In other words, a $400 treatment outweighs a $5,000 renovation!

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Posted in Bugs, Lawn Pests, Insects, Lawn Care Companies

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New Hampshire lawn care companies

Posted on March 28, 2011 | Leave a comment

Support Your local economy

A turf program can be defined as creative, client responsive, results oriented, or even thoughtful.  This kind of lawn program would be highly desired and sought after for lots of reasons including the ones already mentioned.  A turf program could be dated, budget driven, restrictive, or even canned.  Your lawn care program could include some of these attributes good and bad.  What do you get out of your lawn service?  Are you generally pleased and feel your lawn requires no further attention?  Perhaps the prospect of seeking additional advice seems just too much of a bother?  After all, if it is not broken- why fix it?  There is no right or wrong answer to these questions, just the realization, and the possibility that doing things the same, year after year- produces equal or less results over time.  This may not necessarily be a bad thing.  Maybe greater results could be visualized in your own lawn with a fresh look this season? Would an expert analysis be worth the time?  What do you think?

Alternative lawn treatments exist and should be explained as to why they work and how they work for both you and the environment.  If you are served the same TV dinner lawn program each season (fert/grub/lime) without any additional input, perhaps there is more to be said- or maybe less?  Does your lawn care company work in your town nearly every day or does it launch special visitations because the drive is so long?  Which company can provide better customer service, the one that has a 1.5hr drive one way, or the other which can be at your front door in 10 minutes?  These are good questions.

Chipper’s belongs to the Local First Alliance of the Upper Valley and is a proud charter member serving our surrounding communities and giving to those in need generously.  In the same respect, we encourage our neighbors and communities to support each other, to support businesses whose employees live and work in our towns.  We are proud to service wonderful towns like Hanover, Etna, Lyme, New London, Grantham, Woodstock, Sunapee, Lebanon, and so many more.  If you choose to use an outside vendor from faraway places such as Rutland or Manchester to service your lawn for instance, this does not support our immediate local economy.  If supporting your local community is as important to you as it is to chippers, consider a second opinion on your lawn this year and discover how both realms are possible- a great looking lawn and knowing you make a difference by supporting those who live in and around your town!

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Spring Lawn Checklist 2011

Posted on March 22, 2011 | 3 Comments

Goodbye winter, hello green!

The snow is mostly gone, you may even have a few lingering snow banks that refuse to leave, but for the most part, your lawn is begging for some attention.  Here is a handy spring checklist for your home lawn as you prepare for spring.

1. Plow damage.  It’s been a snowy, rough winter and if you had your driveway plowed, you are likely going to have plow damage.  Chunks of sod and lawn likely got plowed up along the edges and pushed further back onto your lawn.  These pieces of turf chunks may be close to their original location which is now just a scar in the dirt.  If possible, try to put the lawn puzzle back together and place the grass pieces back onto bare soil.  It may well be weeks before anything else can be done and during that time frame, those pieces of grass will start to break dormancy and grow.  Having them at least touching soil is better than mulching your unharmed lawn where they currently reside.  You can always move these grassy sections later and seed as needed into surrounding bare areas.

2. Debris. You may well find gravel, junks of asphalt, branches, leaves, and other debris that simply don’t belong on a grassy surface.  The sooner you can rake and remove this debris, the better.  If the debris is left in its current location, you may not see it during your first mow.  Nothing is more painful than hitting sticks, rocks, and gravel with your mower having been placed onto your lawn by a plow truck.  Leaves left in piles or allowed to matt, especially in shade, will simply mulch any existing grass depending upon its health and density.  The less debris the better.

3. Raking. There are two ways to rake a lawn, one is intentionally damaging- power raking/dethatching, the other is just plain hand raking or using a pull behind tractor implement.  I do not recommend power raking/dethatching unless the lawn has a severe, and by severe I mean a thatch problem- over 1” thick.  Most lawns do not have this kind of depth when it comes to thatch.  As a result, if the average lawn is power raked, it is actually damaged by the process of tearing and cutting.  Since the grass is dormant, and likely stressed by winter ice/snow/cold damage, power raking tears up roots and actually thins a lawn which in most cases is not a desired outcome.  If seeing piles of dead grass blades makes you feel warm inside, you might want to look at a coffee or hot cocoa instead, it certainly will do less damage to your lawn.  I have seen perfectly healthy lawns nearly destroyed by well intended landscapers, only to be called in to repair the damage by overseeding and other processes.  Stick with a hand rake and fluff the lawn up to help it warm and start to grow, or hire someone to do a spring cleanup which includes light raking.  If your lawn has a thatch issue, consider core aeration later in the spring or fall after it has recovered from winter damage.

4. Fertilizer/Crabgrass control. If you are going to use either fertilizer and crabgrass control blended together- don’t put it down too early.  A crabgrass barrier/inhibitor has a limited life span and can easily thin out turf already in a weakened state from winter.  Your best bet is to apply a plain balanced fertilizer to enhance recovery in April, than follow it up with a crabgrass inhibitor in May for maximum results.  This order will accomplish the best of both treatments while not subjecting your lawn to further stress, thinning, or damage.

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Posted in Aeration or Core Aeration, Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Misc.

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Crabgrass and your lawn in NH

Posted on March 15, 2011 | 5 Comments

 

When variety and price work against you

There is excitement in the air as day time temperatures rise past the 40’s and into the 50’s with the promise of spring.  Crusty old snow banks shrink each day, exposing the edge of sidewalks, roads, mulch beds, and yes lawns!  The first glimpse of once proud green grass can choke up even the hardiest of New Englanders.  Let’s face it, winter takes a toll on our mental state and even a few hours of sun and green can turn the worst mood around fast.

Spring can be confusing though, especially with all of the advertisements from the big chain stores like Home Depot or Lowes.  These big boys double or triple there employment and bring in all kinds of supplies to fill up the garden department.  Pallets arrive by the truck load and are stacked up in tidy rows yielding multiple selections of colored mulch, fertilizers, decorative stone, lime, topsoil and much more.  Did someone mention new tools?  Who doesn’t love a new shovel or rake?  I mean come on!  Then there are the accessories like bird feeders, edging, lamps, tiki torches, and fencing.  The flowers in baskets and pots draw in even the most hardened shopper like a moth to an outdoor light at night.

While the selection is delightful at these kinds of stores, what commonly is absent is turf knowledge, practical knowledge which applies to your piece of American pie.  Picture yourself standing in front of 6 pallets containing different fertilizers, never mind lime or other materials.  Most of these bags will contain fertilizer mixed with a variety of herbicides or insecticides, some not appropriate for the time of year or the needs of your lawn.  These lawn products generally specify how much they treat in square footage, which can be handy.  However, most materials have a range from “low to heavy” depending upon the rate required.  A lot of the square footage can be based on the low range, which may or may not be what is required at your home.  In other words, you may put down too much or too little for the job which can lead to damaging your existing lawn, turf thinning, poor weed control or a host of other issues.

Surrounding water such as lakes, ponds, and rivers are sensitive areas which must be taken into consideration when applying lawn care materials.  While the laws in NH allow a home owner to apply a variety of products in a turf setting, the same rules apply.  Be sure not to apply ANY fertilizer within 25ft of a pond or lake.  Sea Kelp and lime may be applied within the 25ft range.  From 25ft to 50ft you must use a low phosphate, slow release fertilizer containing NO WEED or INSECT control.  This is very important in order to preserve the quality of the surrounding water and wildlife.  While turf is important and does act as a filter, circumventing or not obeying the law will only cause issues down the road.  Remember, more homeowners treat their own lawn then professionals such as our company.  The impact and risk to a body of water is much higher with homeowners considering the hundreds of houses along lakes and rivers within NH, never mind VT.

Before you buy 200lbs of something and apply it some weekend morning; be sure you are comfortable with the prospect of decent results, the cost of the material, your time, and the potential outcome of wasting all of the above.

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Posted in Crabgrass, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Lime

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How to find a great lawn care company in NH & VT

Posted on March 9, 2011 | 1 Comment

Find the right lawn care company this year

 

On the surface, many lawn care companies appear exactly alike as it relates to a phone book or newspaper advertisement.  If a web site is available, you are likely to see images of a thick, green lawn surrounded by bold tag lines such as “Quality service”, “Five step program”, or “Satisfaction Guaranteed” among many others.  Before you start shopping, write down a short list of what you are looking for- even if you don’t know what you want.  Let me explain.

What are some of your priorities?  Less weeds perhaps, maybe a healthier lawn is your general desire?  Do you prefer natural products over traditional ones?  The final consideration should be the budget or price as any reputable company will prioritize treatments according to results and how to get there as it relates to your wishes.  Said another way, you care about your lawn and have at least decided to seek additional professional help; regardless of the underlying reasons.  While pricing is certainly an important component, what you get for that price varies between lawn care companies.  Experience, product choice, and even rates applied can range from “light” to “generous” when it comes to the amount of material used at your home or office.

While you may not have the time or desire to execute a properly designed turf enhancement program, there are plenty of great companies that will not only make your lawn look better, but make you smile when you look out your window.  All lawn programs are not created equally.  All lawn programs have underlying similar themes but the product choices and execution of the program are critically different between certified, licensed lawn companies.  Do you know anyone who uses a lawn care company?  If so, who do they use and why?  Often you might have heard “street talk”, conversations in passing good or bad of experiences with either local or distant lawn companies.  While national lawn companies may boast the cheapest price, the savings in results, service, billing, customer service, and problem solving skills tend to be inconsistent and difficult to control between offices.  Along the same theme, is supporting your local economy important?  If so, look for lawn care companies within a 30 minute drive of your home versus 1, 2 or more hours away.

What program options are you interested in?  Is your preference toward Natural or Organic fertilizers and treatments of compost tea and sea kelp?  Maybe your interest is simply removing all of those juicy weeds that inhabit your front lawn!  Keeping an open mind, there are many roads and options that can lead to a healthier, greener lawn.  Some lawn products take longer to see visible results while others are faster or “better” simply by working on technology.  Who made the lawn program you are considering?  Is the program a corporate “white bread” duplicated office after office, or are the materials handpicked and the program handcrafted by a smaller company?  These are all very good questions to consider while selecting a new or switching to another lawn care program.    

Once you have a list of priorities and have considered some of the questions put forth in this blog post, you are ready to act!  Good luck in your quest and may your phone call or e-mail be answered promptly.  Get ready for spring!

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Posted in Lawn Care Companies, Misc.

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Prepare your lawn for spring in NH & VT

Posted on February 21, 2011 | 12 Comments

Soon my friend, soon you will cut again!

Spring is technically only a mere 4 weeks away on the calendar!  Although you are not likely to be planting any vegetables or flowers outdoors close to March 20th, the countdown to spring is on.  In the world of grass, those pesky snow banks are likely to linger well into April in our geographic region.  One can almost taste that first day when the air temperature reaches the mid or upper 50’s only to be surrounded by dark, crusty black snow banks.  Your first instinct may be to grab a rake and cleanup some of the debris left by winter wind and snow plows.  Raking even a small portion of your lawn can be therapeutic, signaling the end of white and the beginning of green.

Further raking will assist in air circulation and a drying of the lawn surface where snow mold, ice, and mice may have caused damage.  Removal of surface debris such as gravel, leaves, and branches will allow sunlight to warm the soil which will in turn stimulate green leaf blades in your lawn.  You may find mole hills as they search for insects and their favorite meal worms- in the top 6 inches of the soil.

Be careful not to apply a crabgrass barrier too soon or at a heavy rate in the spring to damaged or diseased turf.  Such an application can have an adverse affect on recovery and spring seeding/repair plans.  In addition, an early crabgrass barrier will run out of steam that much earlier in the summer, potentially giving rise to annual weeds and crabgrass in July.  One option is to lightly fertilize with a compost tea, sea kelp, or a pure blend of straight fertilizer to enhance recovery in April.  If “crabgrass control” is still a necessity, you still have plenty of time in May to apply such a product and maintain decent suppression.  As always, the best defense against crabgrass or even broadleaf weeds is a thick, healthy lawn resulting from proper cultural techniques in addition to turf health care treatments.

If you have not aerated your lawn in the past few years, or don’t even know what core aeration is, consider aerating this spring.  Core aeration is an effective way to help reduce compaction/thatch while increasing air, moisture, and nutrient availability to the lawn.  Heavy duty commercial grade aerators do a marvelous job at removing plugs and depositing them on the surface due to their heavy weight and large tines.  Overseeding after an aeration is a terrific time to thicken up those thin or weak areas in your lawn.

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Posted in Aeration or Core Aeration, Compost Tea, Crabgrass, Cultural Practices, Fertilizer, Lawn Care Companies, Sea Kelp, Turf Disease

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