Tag Archives: chippers

Do it yourself versus the turf care professional Reason #1: The Environment

Lawn on a lake

Turf next to water needs special consideration

50 million Americans care for their own lawns, covering an estimated 31 million of acres of grass.  This amount of lawn area could cover all of New England with 80% of this grass residing in home lawns [Ref 1].  Even with these older figures, we can draw a few basic conclusions including home owner’s account for a significantly larger figure than those who have their grass professionally maintained.  We can also surmise that this is a lot grass area to care for over the growing season with potential ramifications.  Furthermore, the volume of products applied by novice, well-intentioned Americans far outweighs that of licensed and insured turf care professionals.  So what’s really at stake here?  What’s the big deal?

There are a few important factors that should be taken into consideration when comparing the perceived financial savings as opposed to hiring a professional turf care company.  First and foremost, you have the environment.  With so many “do it themselves” (who I will call DITs), one can imagine a larger  impact to waterways when material is unintentionally applied too close to rivers, streams, lakes, or storm drains in cities .  Even though the same rules apply within a state, who is going to notice or inspect the DITs?  No one I suspect would be the simple truth.  Well intentioned or not, without training, field experience, and education, this huge amount of DITs simply don’t have the tools necessary to make proper decisions and apply treatments to turf with the desired results. 

This is a unique problem as it relates to other fields as well such as with a plumber or electrician.  A home owner can do his or her own work, with the final inspection being done by a certified, licensed agent in many cases as a final proof of quality.  After all, there is an inherent safety issue with electrical work to those living within the building.  Codes must be upheld and followed for reasons of safety.  What would happen if this same concept applied to the turf industry?  Imagine requiring a final certification or a site visit prior to applying a weed and feed to your lawn, either near a waterway or even in a city.  Regardless of location, products including fertilizers can find their way into a water system when applied incorrectly, at the wrong rate or analysis.  While this might seem extreme, I propose that most DIT’s do not know the majority of Federal or State legislation governing the applications of lawncare products such as herbicides, insecticides and simple fertilizers.

There is a common saying in many professions that they ‘rely on their tools in their tool box’ to get the job done right. These tools can be diversified and help each professional complete a job, whether a mechanic, physician, or lawn care company.  Each business has varying degrees of education, on the job experience, and certification or licensing to attain each level of competency.  I have been in the green industry for 25 years now and have seen the mistakes made by DITs, as well as by those in the industry with a lack of proper training and education.  It seems like common sense that insuring a quality job is done right, with the right tools would be a top priority in any business, including the turf care industry.

I propose that regardless of what is being applied to turf to make it healthier, or to benefit the home owner’s quality of life, the treatment itself must be done to specifications and within the guidelines set forth by each body of legislature to insure our environment is kept safe for generations to come. 

I find it unsettling that so many DITs have access of some of the same professional products I use in formulations readily available at their local hardware store yet without the guidance and licensing required of our business.  In the end, it all comes down to numbers as cited in the opening paragraph of this blog post: the millions outweigh the professionals.  This information is certainly food for thought as you prepare this winter for the upcoming spring thaw and the inevitable flurry of activity outside on your own lawn.  Perhaps this is the year to explore different options, such as choosing a path that makes both your lawn green, and keeps green in your wallet, while obtaining the results you demand in a safe and eco-friendly way.

References:

[1] The Lawn Institute, 1855-A Hicks Road, Rolling Meadows, IL 60008.

2011 Mrgrass blog annual report

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2011 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

The concert hall at the Syndey Opera House holds 2,700 people. This blog was viewed about 14,000 times in 2011. If it were a concert at Sydney Opera House, it would take about 5 sold-out performances for that many people to see it.

Click here to see the complete report.

Lawn & Landscape reflections, planning for 2012

Lawn & Landscape relections

With the passing of Thanksgiving and December now underway, now is a great time to reflect back over the past growing season.  As you reflect, write down known problems or areas of success while they are still fresh in your mind.  Doing so now will give you an opportunity to formulate a new strategy for 2012.  For instance, you may have had great success improving turf along a new walkway but failed to achieve a level of desired weed control.  Perhaps you never got to plant that colorful crabapple out front by the light post but really want to in 2012.  Make a list of your top 6 goals for 2012 as it relates to your landscape.  Keeping a short list will provide greater focus of resources, time, and ultimately your ability to achieve the goals once spring arrives.  I have found many homeowners with great intentions tackle too many projects simultaneously only to become discouraged due to poor results.  Creating simple, realistic goals will help you achieve real success and at the end of the day allow you to enjoy the fruit of your hard work.

Maybe you want to plant a new tree out front for color, or your back lawn is a disaster and you simply want something green to look at versus bare ground.  Whatever the goal, write down your thoughts so you can think the process through before implementing any changes or new tactics.  Some projects are best done before others such as planting a new tree or shrub, then finishing off the area with new grass.  Why waste time seeding a lawn area only to dig it back up again to create a flower bed or a mulched space for new ornamental trees?  Thinking through your goals sooner rather than later will allow for a better game plan and easier execution when it comes time to implement your new goals.

Improving your outdoor green space can be a very rewarding experience and provide years of enjoyment during our short growing seasons in New England.  After working on thousands of lawns and landscapes, I can summarize and share some of the most common improvements where professional help might be considered to save time and achieve a specific outcome.  The list below consists of the most common exterior green space home improvements I have encountered but is certainly not limited to just these types of projects.

  1.  Lawn renovation/restoration (lime, fertilizer, compost tea)
  2.  Tree & Shrub pruning
  3.  Tree & Shrub removals
  4.  Tree & Shrub new plantings
  5.  Perennial garden renovation/installation
  6.  Flower garden renovation/installation

Lawn renovations or restorations are what I deal with on a daily basis and many folks don’t realize most lawns can be improved “as is” without starting from scratch.  Most clients are looking for improved turf color, density, and less weeds or bugs.  While the prescribed treatments will vary, most lawns can be dramatically improved in just one year with diligent and professional care.  Tree and shrub pruning is an often neglected area either not being done at all or done incorrectly and may cause future growth and (structural) damage.  Pruning done by a professional on a routine basis is actually less expensive than waiting numerous years not to mention the tree may be injured thereby predisposing it to insect, disease, and ice/snow damage.

Tree or shrub removals usual involve overgrown or dead/damaged plant material that may be a hazard to your home or yard.  Removals can improve a view or add sunlight to a damp, shady location.  Planting new tree or shrubs is a very common activity and usually is on the spring “to do list”.  Be aware however that problems with planting can occur when the planting depth is improper and/or the wrong tree or shrub is placed in the wrong location.  While the job may look sweet and seemingly be destined for years of enjoyment, I am called in (sometimes years later) to diagnose a declining plant for the reasons I just mentioned.  Another fun green space project is the renovation, creation, or expansion of either flower and or perennial beds.  These types of projects can be very enjoyable as the plant material is generally small, readily available, and easy to plant.  While most of these types of goals can be successfully achieved by a homeowner with the patience, research, and time – most will opt for professional advice if not assistance at some point in time.  The key to improving your outdoor green space is keeping things simple and planning out your projects over the winter so when spring arrives, you have a strategy already in place.

Lawn watering, from green to brown

Watering your lawn is essential if you want to minimize browning

June is typically a transition month from cooler wet weather to warmer and drier weather in NH and VT.  While you may enjoy the warmer weather, your lawn is composed of cool season grasses and disapproves of 80 or 90 degree days.  Your grass is designed to flourish in 60 or 70 degree temperatures, but set the weather to broil and you will have consequences.  For instance, even a healthy green lawn with plenty of water is still susceptible to leaf scorch – a condition similar to taking a vacation in Mexico in January.  The lawn has succulent leaves, full of moisture, and they may not be fully prepared for hot weather.  I have seen lawns turn from a vibrant green to patches of white or tan overnight!  I can hear the phrase “what happened?” echo down the street from front porch to porch.

How can such a thing be prevented?  You can mow regularly with a sharp blade to 3,” not too short as to cause stress.  Don’t over fertilize either because too much of a good thing is never healthy.  A lawn cranked up on the golden juice of high soluble fertilizers is predisposed to stress and what we in the business call the classic “crash.”  This crash is a like watching a nice sports car hit a concrete wall – most unpleasant.  A lawn that is racing in terms of growth can be dangerous, especially if that same lawn runs out of soil moisture and/or hits a period of 90 degree days.  This type of weather can spell all kinds of trouble for what seemed bliss for you as a homeowner. You may see all kinds of white blotching as “hot spots,” as the sunniest areas tend to dry out first and turn a dull purple or off green.

Classic drought stress brought on in June by warm weather and minimal rainfall

Don’t confuse this type of situation with summer diseases which may also be present.  Dollar spot, brown patch, and a hoard of numerous villains await a weak, dry lawn, or one that stays wet overnight due to late watering or humidity.  Drought stress or sun scald can mimic diseases like dollar spot or patch diseases during the summer.  If you are in doubt, have a professional look in order to determine what course of action may be required.

Hot spots in a lawn should receive top priority when it comes to watering

When it comes to watering, anything is better than nothing when it comes to your lawn turning from green, to dull purple, to light tan, to all out brown.  Drought stress, combined with hot weather, can cause a lawn to crash and brown out in mere days if left unattended.  Any irrigation is better than no irrigation in the sense that once your lawn goes brown, it takes weeks to start new growth and push out new green leaves.  Brown grass leaves don’t just rehydrate and turn green for the most part – they are gone and need to be replaced.  Early intervention by watering can either minimize or prevent massive browning if done correctly.  Most turf wants 1” of rainfall per week to continue normal activities.  If you can water in the morning, this is preferred to help minimize disease and evaporation in the day’s heat.  Watering for a soaking is better than a light misting.  In other words, a 1hr soak is better than 15 minutes a day, yet 15 minutes a day is better than no irrigation at all.  Early watering will yield faster results and help the lawn stay green before things turn tan or brown.  Watch for those hazing dull patches, those sections that don’t bounce back after you walk over them so you can still see your footprints.  These are the priority areas that need water versus turf that is still a vibrant green.

Lawn care treatment precautions: what you need to know

 

A common lawn care flag designed to grab your attention

You just arrive home and you see a lawn flag in your lawn, you don’t know what to do!  What precautions should you, as a homeowner, be aware of as it relates to lawn care treatments being made to your lawn by your lawn care company?  This is a great question.

Although lawn treatments will vary from liquid to granular, and from product to product, there are some basics you should be aware of regardless of the company you employ to care for your grass.  I prefer granular products because in general, no special precautions need to be made to you, as the homeowner or client.  Once the product is down, the majority of materials used do not require watering or even a waiting period before use by your family or pets.  Hurray!  In fact, even our broadleaf weed control products request that you do not mow or water for a few days for maximum results.  Wow, instructions to do nothing- I like this lawn program!  In fact, less than 5% of our lawn treatments require any special watering, mowing, or other unique directions to you as a home owner.

Lawn flags are required on commercial treatments in NH

Liquid treatments are another means to deliver a material to a lawn area or tree and shrubs.  As a general rule, these lawn treatments are diluted using water as a carrier and once dry, the lawn can be used for most activities.  Chippers’ “Essential Turf Care program” utilizes very few liquid treatments with the exception of some tick sprays, compost tea, or perhaps a non-selective weed treatment in your mulch beds.  Again, even these liquid treatments require no special action to be taken by you, as a homeowner.  Our program is designed to free up your time, not chain you to your lawn by adding more responsibility or duties.  Is it any surprise that our turf division has become so popular with our clients in NH and VT?

If you do have any questions regarding your lawn or other treatment, be sure to read the back of our flags or the door hanger left behind outlining what was done, when, who did it, and any special notes you may wish to read.  If you desire further information, call any of our offices during the week and speak to a real customer service executive, not an answering machine!  Your satisfaction is our top priority.

To weed your lawn or not to weed, that is the question!

White clover in a lawn is very common

Many folks cannot stand dandelions, clover, violets, wild strawberry and a host of other creepy-crawly broadleaf weeds.  By definition, a weed is simply a plant that is not desired, out of place if you will.  Therefore, one person’s weed is perhaps desired by another.  I often ask clients on a consultation if they want weeds reduced or left alone.  The majority have quick answer, such as “I don’t mind them” or “kill them all!” different strokes for different folks.  The point I am trying to make is this: you don’t necessarily need to feel obligated to attack every broadleaf weed in your lawn to have it healthy, colorful, and green.  Sure, some will flower and it may not have that “golf course” manicured look, but it will certainly be functional for barbeques, picnics, or volleyball.

On the other hand, some folks like a more manicured, groomed lawn with a finer texture and a pleasing roll as the wind combs each blade into a carpet of excellence.  Broadleaf weeds are best reduced and attacked when they are actively growing, and that means spring and fall.  Tough weeds have waxy coatings which makes them difficult to thin out like ground ivy and violets.  Other weeds shake in fear at the mere sight of a bag of weed and feed being loaded up into the spreader for the inevitable is near!  Clover and dandelions are easily reduced or completely eliminated in a single season with proper timing and technique.

The dandelion is the symbol of a common weed

Weeds are like chocolate and vanilla ice cream, there is an opposite flavor and outlook on each, neither being necessarily right or wrong, better or worse.  My final word of caution for those “do it yourself” folks, be vigilant of how much and when you apply your material.  Be aware of surface water like rivers, streams, lakes, and ponds as they border your turf area.  Be careful not to apply too much product under the illusion of better results, disregarding the label instructions.  Have fun, and may your lawn be a source of enjoyment, not a burden to your summer happiness.

White Grubs in your NH or VT lawn

White grub damage on a lawn

I was just finishing up some yard work today and noticed some rather large, creamy color, C shaped grubs worms in a few sunny locations.  Given the current grub size, they are most difficult to control without some aggressive attention.  You have a few choices in May to knock back a grub infestation in your lawn.  Dylox is one of a few materials that will address grubs in a large state with generally satisfactory results.  There are only a few organic options worth reviewing like concentrated cedar oils, and capsaicin extract blended with other oils.  In either case, a repeat treatment can often be necessary given the mode of action, time of year, and size of the grub itself.  Trying to use standard Grub-X will not work because the active ingredient is designed for small grubs, not big boys like you see in May in NH or VT.

Another option is not to treat at all and wait until summer to apply a preventative treatment which not only means the ability to use less aggressive products, but in lesser amounts with incredible control percentages approaching 95-99% in total effectiveness.  Preventative products are usually required in fewer amounts, are much more effective, and are more environmentally friendly as a result.  Grubs and other insects are vulnerable in a smaller state or size.  Therefore, it only makes sense that less product and/or active ingredient is required when being proactive versus reactive.

For anyone experiencing grub infestations, look for annual grub control in the June-September time frame for maximum results.  The cost of not addressing grub issues in your lawn can mean expensive renovations, especially if you have an open, sunny lawn or a prior history of grub problems.  Rose chafers, European chafers, and Japanese beetles all pose a serious threat to your lawn and garden as well as your tree and ornamental shrubs.

Tick Suppression by your lawn care professional

NH Ticks

Creating a safe play area around your home against ticks is smart

While most people are generally aware that their lawn care company can address turf problems, many are not aware of tick suppression.  Tick suppression can be a valuable service, especially for homes surrounded by fields and woods.  Spring begins the tick season in NH and VT as the adults become active and seek a blood meal to reproduce.  Ticks seek wild animals, pets, or your family members as they move out of winter hibernation.  Unfortunately, most ticks are so small they are virtually impossible to see or avoid until you find them on your clothing.  Nothing is more unsettling then finding ticks on your pets or children.  Although the common dog tick does not transmit Lyme disease, the common Deer tick does carry this dangerous disease.

Most tick control products function well for 2-5 weeks ranging from organic to traditional materials.  In fact, many new products are used in pet supplies and products found at your local pet store.  The key to safety is using a responsible, experienced, and licensed lawn care company.  You must have a license in NH or VT to treat for ticks, even if you use an organic product!  Ticks are noxious pests and the saying “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” is certainly worth heeding to avoid the painful condition brought about by Lyme disease.

While you may see a typical dog tick, you are not likely to see a Deer tick, a primary vector of Lyme disease.  Therefore, treating your lawn around the house during the growing season is a sound decision.  A tick treatment can be liquid or granular and should be applied to the perimeter of fields, woods, and your lawn to reduce the existing tick population.  Reducing ticks in the spring is a sensible solution toward maintaining a safe outdoor living space.

Lawn pests include grubs in NH & VT

The Japanese beetle will not only eat foliage, the grubs will eat your lawn!

There are about eight major types of grubs in NH and VT that cause turf damage, ranging from the classic Japanese beetle to a masked chafer.  Grubs will cause lawn damage plus the adults will devour ornamental shrubs and trees in your landscape.  The potential loss of your investment makes controlling the young and adult stage of these beetles a sensible decision.  Luckily, there are organic and new products available to help control these villains plus many others!

As always, the best defense is a good offense.  Healthy turf can withstand root pruning and even minor damage without a pesticide being applied – even an organic one.  Proper cultural practices, such as proper irrigation and a high 3” mowing height, also help keep your lawn cooler and less desirable to adult beetles.  Overseeding with resistant turf varieties makes the grass taste less desirable, not necessarily to grubs but to their buddies above ground like chinch bugs, sod webworm and such.

New and old research shows that compost tea actually helps grass develop its own immune response to reduce damage from both insect and disease activity. Although not an easy turf treatment, beneficial nematodes provide 100% organic control in the spring or fall.  Milky spore disease was developed a long time ago to control only Japanese beetle grubs, not the other seven.  Unfortunately, the spores take years to develop due to the cold New England winters.  As a result, Milky spore is not recommended by professionals as it simply does not work in NH or VT.

New organic pesticides that are ORMI certified contain capcaisin, the active ingredient in hot peppers. To obtain good results, and because the organic treatments are short-lived, multiple visits are required in the spring and fall to obtain predictable results.  Even organic pesticides require extensive licensing and certification in both NH and VT.  If you are considering “professional help,” be sure to ask for the company’s NHPC number in NH or license certification in VT before having any treatment done on your property- organic or otherwise!  The potential damage inflicted by an application remains substantial, even if the material used is 100% organic, with improper rates, training, and equipment.  In today’s economy, everyone with a pickup truck claims he is an organic landscaper but doesn’t have the credentials, insurance, or education to back up the temporary lettering.

For those ‘do-it-yourself’ folks, be careful what you purchase and use this spring.  For instance, “Grubex” is another name for Acelypryn, a great new product for controlling grubs and other harmful insects.  Unfortunately, if used at the wrong time, your application will not work due to the size and life stage of the pest you may desire to eliminate.  This factor underscores the importance of proper training and state certification where turf technicians must learn not only insect but local disease pests.

While the bag you buy at your hardware store may be well labeled for grubs, you may not be applying it at the right time or stage of the pest.  Said another way, just because the bag says it controls pests X, Y, and Z does not mean you are going to control them due to the time of year.  This type of activity would be the definition of a waste of money, time, and chemical.  Without the proper information on the life cycle of the pest you seek to destroy or reduce, applying home products is like shooting in the dark.

In summary, there are lots of ways to help your lawn look great, with the best and least environmental impact being the cultural and day to day upkeep of the turf.  Integrating resistant grasses during lawn overseeding/establishment and implementing organic or natural bacterial and friendly fungi are super tools with no harmful side effects.  In my opinion, pesticides should only be used as a last resort or when there may be a history of continual damage on a scale that would outweigh the omission of such products.  In other words, a $400 treatment outweighs a $5,000 renovation!

Field Mouse or Vole damage visible on lawns in spring

Mouse damage on lawns common in spring

As the snow melts (eventually), you may find surface tunnels on your lawn.  This can be a disturbing image and is most unpleasant.  Voles, also known as field mice will tunnel under the snow, eating the grass and shallow roots of your lawn.  The result of this frozen dinner feast is a maze of tunnels created where the mice traveled.  The extent of the damage can be minor such as leaves and thatch being eaten all the way to roots and shoots a more severe result of mouse lawn damage.

Your best bet is to let the area recover in April and do some seeding in May once the soil warms up enough.  Depending upon the extent and depth of the damage, you may not have to do anything, or as in this picture above, the soil is exposed likely requiring some modest efforts to restore the grass to “factory condition”.